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Unflappable Chanel in no hurry to find new designer amid continuity in Paris
Label doubles down on house codes as empty birdcage signals its last creative director – Virginie Viard – has flown
Photograph: Mohammed Badra/EPAPavlovsky declined to give a timeframe for the appointment of “the next artistic leader”, confirming that the studio team who created today’s collection are already working on looks for shows in December and January. Names in the hat, according to the fashion week rumour mill, may include designers Hedi Slimane, Pieter Mulier, Simon Porte Jacquemus, John Galliano and Marc Jacobs – even the film director Sofia Coppola. Placeholder collections without anyone to take a bow tend to feel underpowered, especially when the catwalk dwarfs a football pitch, but the design team brought youthful enthusiasm to their brief of doubling down on house codes.
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