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Seán McGirr taps into 90s-era spikiness in Alexander McQueen debut show
New creative director says he wants to take fashion house in direction of ‘rough glamour’ and ‘anti-politeness’
McGirr’s vision does not, as yet, have either the intense braininess or the master tailoring of the original McQueen, but this first showing felt aimed at conjuring the sharp-edged spikiness of that era, rather than the delicate, British folkloric, Princess of Wales-facing version of the house that evolved under Burton. A safety pin moulded like a fish skeleton sketched by the famed Gonzo-illustrator Ralph Steadman for the invitation appeared as a silver brooch on lapels of coat jackets on the catwalk. Leather lacing that Lee bound around women’s thighs in The Birds was confined to the calves of skinny jeans, and McGirr instead found exaggerated silhouettes in giant, chubby knitwear.
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