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Prada’s pared-back military chic offers simplicity in turbulent times


Plimsolls, khaki and raffia at Milan menswear collection straddle line between escapism and political statement

Precision-pressed shirting with hand-drawn wave illustrations, khaki knitwear with fringed hems, utilitarian-grey tailoring paired with tiny matching shorts and striped tracksuits styled with thonged sandals mused individuality over conformity. Accessories including grey wash bags, backpacks with multiple pockets and compartments as well as white canvas plimsolls – items with sartorial origins in military survival gear – were countered with raffia cloche hats and a pastel palette that suggested escapism rather than restraint. Models walked to an abstract soundscape, which started with birdsong and concluded with Elvis Presley’s 1969 hit In the Ghetto, in a space that featured bare walls with retro, floral shagpile carpets, though it was usually adorned with chandeliers.

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