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Leaderless Gucci harks back to glamorous 60s and sexy 90s in Milan
Having recently lost their designer, the house presented a greatest hits package at Milan fashion week
Photograph: REX/ShutterstockThe new collection, a group effort by the leaderless design team presented with chin-up fanfare, a live orchestra and trays of champagne, was a statement about what Gucci has been, and can be again with the right creative leader. Luxe faux fur coats over pencil skirts paid homage to the days when Sophia Loren was a beloved customer at the Gucci store in Rome; shift dresses with oversized buttons and daringly high hemlines brought a dash of Jackie Kennedy. Tom Ford’s 1990s handwriting was here too, in tissue-thin slip dresses plunging low to the navel and the base of the spine, and a sheer lace skirt with the briefest of black knickers visible beneath.
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