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Gucci bets on coats to drive sales at Milan fashion week


Sabato de Sarno’s affection for outerwear was evident in his collection, as were the accessories so vital to the brand’s fortunes

Overcoats in black and camel were classic on top but salted with sparkle from the waist down; moss green and double-breasted or oversized and navy with subtly statement collars, if that isn’t a paradox. A half moon … Photograph: Claudia Greco/Reuters Last season’s Gucci show, De Sorno’s first as creative director, was seen as a “factory reset”, a palette-cleanser – a spoonful of sorbet or sniff of espresso beans after the maximalism of the Alessandro Michele years. Photograph: WWD/Getty ImagesIn the churn of creative directors – luxury houses have the same problem as Premier League football clubs – those in the top jobs are judged rapidly, given little time to bed in and expected to perform commercially from the get-go.

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