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Esoteric universe of Loewe is a smash hit for Jonathan Anderson


Gleaming marquee wallpapered with violin sheet music is venue for spectacular Paris show

Around the bird, which gazed down on the room from a 13ft pole, were seated an audience including the actors Jeff Goldblum, Rob Lowe and Ayo Edebiri, each clutching the heavy golden Tudor love rings that were their invitations to the Loewe fashion show, in preparation for which this scene had been created. Loewe, a venerable Spanish brand that had previously enjoyed a respectable 150 years making elegant handbags for Madrid’s ladies who lunch, has in Anderson’s era become the fastest-growing house in the LVMH luxury stable. Anderson, a soft-spoken, jeans-wearing 40-year-old who converses with an intense-PhD-student energy that has little in common with any popular tropes of the fashion designer personality, said after the show that clown-length brogues, boat shoes and loafers were “about poise, about the gesture of stepping forward”.

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