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Chanel shows no sign of drift, even without a chief designer at helm


Luxury brand’s studio team turn to timeless tweeds and neat silhouettes in first show since Virginie Viard’s sudden exit

Since the sudden exit this month of the designer Virginie Viard, who had led Chanel since the death of Karl Lagerfeld five years ago, this mighty luxury brand, worth an estimated £15.5bn ($19.7bn), is headless. Timeless Chanel codes – the gleam of flecked metallic tweed, neat silhouettes, a sophisticated colour palette, an air of well-bred girlishness – are adeptly translated by a 150-strong atelier team through the lens of current client tastes. Hedi Slimane, a cult figure in the industry who shares Lagerfeld’s ability to make fashion that feels like news, has been widely linked with the role, although he is still very much in situ across Paris at the house of Celine.

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