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‘Englishness with an Italian accent’: Gucci returns to its London roots
Star-studded show at Tate Modern honours British origins of the Italian fashion house
An army of loafer-shod champagne waiters escorted the footballer Leah Williamson to her seat next to the actor Andrew Scott, while the K-pop star Lee Know stopped for a chat with Paul Mescal, and Dua Lipa paused to read the words of Mustafa the Poet, beamed in vast white lettering in a scroll that covered the floor of the Turbine Hall. The Venetian musician Yakamoto Kotzuga kickstarted the soundtrack as the first model emerged, wearing baggy jeans with vintage-style patching and thick-rimmed glasses, a slouchy suede blazer unbuttoned over a loose daisy-print blouse. Where his first collections doubled down on classic simplicity, attracting criticism for underwhelm, this show jacked up the energy: pearl chokers, bugle beaded party dresses, sport socks with green and red Gucci trim, and offbeat colour combinations of mustard with lavender, or lemon with rose.
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