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Jonathan Anderson: the esoteric designer taking on the mantle at Dior
Appointment of Northern Irishman behind Loewe hype machine sets storied fashion house on experimental path
A critical darling and commercial success, Anderson made Loewe into a fashion week hype machine and Hollywood powerhouse while creating shoes with perspex cracked eggs for heels,art-directing Daniel Craig’s post-Bond relaunch in specs and quirky knits, and casting the late Dame Maggie Smith as a model in an advertising campaign at the age of 88. He created Rihanna’s bump-shaped red leather corset worn at the 2023 Super Bowl for an internet-breaking pregnancy reveal, and collaborated with the sculptor Lynda Benglis on a stage set that turned a Paris show space into a gallery. As a result, the traditional narrative – in which young designers opt into commercial success by bending their taste toward the mainstream – has so far failed to apply in the case of Anderson, who has become more avant garde rather than less as his career has progressed.
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