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From gallabiyas to kaftans, how African style went global


The diverse designs coming out of all parts of Africa are rising in popularity – and part of a bigger cultural takeover around the world

Photograph: Dye LabAfrican and African-inspired fashion houses, based on the continent and abroad, have not only increased in number over the past two decades – African exports amount to – they have penetrated the luxury sector. The Kenyan-Mexican actor Lupita Nyong’o wore a cowrie-shell headpiece at the Wakanda Forever premiere in Los Angeles in 2022 and the Nigerian-born British star of Sinners, Wunmi Mosaku, frequently wears African prints at film launches and festivals. While the few pieces I have hunted down at sales and pop-ups are coveted and loved, I wish there was more that could be blended – a motif, a nod to a tradition, an emblem – that takes the style away from the event and elevates the mundane.

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